Trekking in the Dolomites: Lago di Braies to Tre Cime

Welcome to one of the Dolomites' true postcard classics. You check in to your accommodation at Lago di Braies from around 5 pm. If you arrive earlier, there's every reason not to rush off anywhere: the emerald-green lake lies dramatically framed by Croda del Becco and is a fine introduction to the week ahead. You can take a first walk in the Grüntal valley or simply enjoy the lake and mountain surroundings. If you're travelling by car, it can be left in the car park during the week for a fee. Dinner is included in the evening.

Today the traverse of the Dolomites begins in earnest. You follow the shore around the beautiful Lago di Braies before the trail starts climbing towards the pass at Croda del Becco. On the other side you reach the high mountain surroundings around Rifugio Biella at 2,320 metres, where you can stop for lunch. Here alpine pastures open up where chamois are common and edelweiss is part of the flora. The hike continues to Sennes before you descend towards Fodara. This small alpine settlement lies at 1,980 metres, on the edge of an impressive mountain hollow beneath Croda Camin. A proper first day of hiking with exactly the kind of landscape you came here for.

From Fodara the trail first descends to Pederu at 1,543 metres. Then the path turns upwards again along a relatively easy route towards Fanes. After a shorter climb you reach Passo Limo at 2,174 metres and then cross the vast Alpe di Fanes. Via Passo Tadega and Col de Locia you walk between mighty mountains such as Monte Cavallo and the over 3,000-metre-high Dents de Cunturines. After the descent towards Capanna Alpina, the day's final climb awaits. The goal is the beautifully situated Rifugio Scotoni at 1,985 metres. Dinner rarely tastes better than after almost a thousand metres of ascent!

Today's first goal is Passo Lagazuoi at 2,573 metres. From here there are two options. You can climb Pizo Lagazuoi and take the cable car down towards Passo Falzarego, which separates Valle Ampezzo from Val Badia and houses tunnels from the First World War. From here the hike continues via Col Gallina and Alpe Potor to Cinque Torri.

The longer hiking variant goes via Forcella Travenanzes and Passo Falzarego. From there the trail climbs back up towards Passo Averau at 2,435 metres before today's destination appears among Cinque Torri's fantastic rock towers. Whichever route you choose, one of the trip's most photogenic evenings awaits – here the Dolomites are exactly as dramatic as their reputation suggests.

You begin the day with a long descent towards Cortina d'Ampezzo at 1,225 metres, one of the Dolomites' most famous mountain towns. After about three hours of hiking and roughly 800 metres of descent, you can stop for lunch and stroll along the pedestrian street, equal parts chic and alpine. Then you take the local bus onward to Lago di Misurina. The lake is another of the Dolomites' classic viewpoints, and from here you can choose whether to hike or take the bus to Rifugio Auronzo. The hike takes about three hours with 600 metres of ascent. The evening is spent in a spectacular setting right in front of Tre Cime.

One of the trip's big days. You hike towards the Lavaredo pass right beneath Tre Cime and continue through the strange world of rock spires and towers between Tre Cime and Monte Paterno. At Rifugio Locatelli, besides the chance for a coffee break, you get the classic view of Tre Cime's famous north faces. If you want more, there's a two-hour extra loop around Monte Paterno via Croda Passaporto, the Cengia lakes, and Büllelejoch.

Then the beautiful descent towards Valle di Landro awaits. Here you can choose between two routes to Prato Piazza. The easier one goes via Lago di Landro and Carbonin before the trail climbs up to the high plateau. The tougher alternative rounds Strudelkopf through the Chiara valley and includes a short, somewhat airy passage with railings. Both end at magnificent Prato Piazza – a high plateau that feels made for one last evening among the mountains.

On the last day the circle closes and you return to Lago di Braies. The easier route goes down through the Schmieden valley and takes about three to four hours. Experienced hikers comfortable with heights can instead choose the longer and more spectacular trail around Croda Rossa. It passes through a mix of alpine meadows and rocky high-mountain terrain and includes a short section with a cable. After that, the descent towards Lago di Braies remains, where the week's hike ends in the afternoon.

You can book an extra night here if you don't want to travel home right after the hike, or perhaps make your way to Dobbiaco, Brunico, or Cortina for a night in these pleasant small towns.