Cycling on Funen & Ærø

Arrival in Odense, Funen's largest city and a pleasant starting point for the week's cycling adventure. The city is more than a thousand years old but is above all known as the birthplace of H.C. Andersen – and the fairy-tale author is still recalled in many places. Take a first stroll through the city centre and be sure to stop by Sankt Knuds Kirke, one of Denmark's most important Gothic buildings and a reminder of the city's flourishing medieval period. The rest of the evening is free to get acquainted with Odense and gear up for tomorrow's first stage.

Today the cycling trip really begins. You follow the Odense River out of the city, and soon the lush Funen countryside takes over. In Brobyværk it's a good spot to stop for a smørrebrød or a Danish pastry before the route continues southward. The first part of the day is mostly flat, but eventually you reach the "Funen Alps." A dramatic name, and perhaps an expression of Danish humour. You needn't worry about any alpine walls here – instead, gentle hills and a beautiful landscape shaped by the inland ice await. Through a scenic reserve, you continue towards Fåborg, a charming old harbour town by the South Funen Archipelago.

Today's stage continues through southern Funen's gently rolling landscape towards Svendborg or nearby Troense. Svendborg is an old seafaring town, and the sea is still a natural part of city life. After the day's cycling, you can visit Anne Hvides Gård, the town's oldest building, or simply slow down with a walk along the harbour. At Sejlskibsbroen, classic wooden boats and elegant sailing ships lie moored side by side – exactly the kind of setting that makes you wonder why you don't live on a Danish island all year round.

Today one of the trip's great highlights awaits. The ferry from Svendborg takes you and your bike out into the "Danish South Sea" to Ærøskøbing, the island's oldest town. Here you decide the level of ambition yourself. Cycle all the way around Ærø or choose the eastern or western part and give yourself more time for swimming, coffee breaks, and small detours.

Among the excursion destinations is the seafaring town of Marstal, where Carsten Jensen's well-known and atmospheric book We, the Drowned is set. A reading tip before, during, or after the trip! You can also see the dramatic coastal cliffs at Voderup Klint, Søbygaard, and the lighthouse at Skjoldnæs. Or simply stay a little longer among Ærøskøbing's colourful houses and cobblestone lanes. The route can be shortened depending on mood and form on the day. In the afternoon or evening, you take the ferry back to Svendborg.

From Svendborg you continue northeast towards Nyborg. The sea is never far away, and along the way you pass several beaches that almost demand at least a quick stop – and on warm days, a dip. As you approach Nyborg, the view opens up towards the Great Belt and the massive bridge connecting Funen with Zealand. In Nyborg, even more Danish history awaits. The town's royal castle is considered Denmark's oldest royal castle and served for several centuries as a residence for Danish kings. After about 55 kilometres in the saddle, this evening's dinner is likely to taste extra good.

The last day of cycling takes you back towards Odense, thereby closing the loop around Funen. On the way, you pass Kerteminde, where you can visit the marine research centre Fjord & Bælt and learn about life beneath the surface – home to, among others, harbour porpoises and seals. If the weather is too nice for a museum visit, a longer break on the beach is at least as good an alternative. From there, you pedal on through the Funen landscape towards Odense. Once back, you can celebrate the completed tour with a boat trip on the Odense River or simply find a pleasant spot in the city centre and sum up the week over something good.

After breakfast, it's time to say farewell to Funen and begin the journey home. Since the trip both starts and ends in Odense, the logistics are simple, whether you continue by train, car, or to one of the airports. If you don't quite want to leave the fairy-tale city yet, it's also possible to book an extra night in Odense and give H.C. Andersen's hometown a little more time.